DIY Car Storage Prep: The Complete Checklist

Before You Start: Gather Your Supplies

Having everything ready before you begin saves time and ensures you don't skip steps. You'll need:

• Fuel stabilizer (STA-BIL or similar)
• Battery tender/trickle charger OR wrench to disconnect the battery
• Tire pressure gauge and air compressor or pump
• Fresh engine oil and filter (if due for a change)
• Car wash supplies and wax
• Quality car cover (breathable fabric, not plastic)
• Wheel chocks (2-4)
• Dryer sheets or peppermint oil sachets (rodent deterrent)
• Baking soda box (moisture absorber for the interior)

Total cost for supplies you don't already have: $50-$120. A fraction of the repair bills you'll avoid.

The Checklist: Exterior

• Wash thoroughly — remove all dirt, bird droppings, tree sap, and road salt. These damage paint over time.
• Clay bar treatment (optional but recommended) — removes embedded contaminants the wash misses.
• Apply wax or paint sealant — this creates a barrier against moisture and dust during storage.
• Clean wheels and wheel wells — brake dust is corrosive and will pit alloy wheels if left on.
• Inspect and touch up paint chips — exposed metal will rust during storage. A $5 touch-up pen prevents a $500 repair.

The Checklist: Under the Hood

• Change the oil and filter if it's within 1,000 miles of being due. Used oil contains acids that corrode engine internals over time.
• Top off all fluids — coolant, brake fluid, power steering, windshield washer.
• Check coolant concentration — if you're storing in a cold climate, make sure it's rated for the lowest expected temperature.
• Inspect belts and hoses — a cracked belt that breaks during the first drive out of storage is dangerous and inconvenient.

The Checklist: Fuel System

• Fill the tank to 90-95% — a full tank prevents moisture condensation inside. Don't fill to 100% as fuel expands with temperature changes.
• Add fuel stabilizer — follow the product's dosage instructions for your tank size.
• Run the engine for 10-15 minutes — this circulates stabilized fuel through the entire fuel system including the injectors and fuel lines.

The Checklist: Battery

• Option A — Battery tender: Connect a maintenance charger and leave it plugged in. Best option if the facility has power outlets near your parking spot.
• Option B — Disconnect: Remove the negative terminal cable. The battery will slowly discharge but won't be drained by parasitic draws. Expect to jump-start or charge before driving.
• Option C — Remove: Take the battery out entirely and store it in a temperature-stable location on a wood surface (not concrete). Best for 6+ month storage.

The Checklist: Tires

• Inflate to the max PSI on the tire sidewall — this is higher than the door jamb sticker recommends for driving, but reduces flat-spotting during storage.
• For 6+ month storage: Place the car on jack stands to completely unload the tires.
• If you can't use jack stands: Plan to move the car forward or backward a few inches every 4-6 weeks to rotate the tire contact patch.

The Checklist: Interior and Pest Prevention

• Remove all food, wrappers, and trash — even crumbs attract rodents.
• Vacuum thoroughly — seats, floors, trunk, under the seats.
• Place dryer sheets or peppermint oil sachets in the cabin, trunk, and engine bay. Mice dislike the smell.
• Stuff steel wool into the exhaust pipe opening and the air intake — these are rodent entry points.
• Leave the parking brake off — brake pads can fuse to rotors. Use wheel chocks instead.
• Crack the windows 1/4 inch if stored indoors — this allows air circulation and prevents musty odors.

Final Step: Cover and Document

Place a breathable car cover over the vehicle. Take photos of the car's condition — exterior from all four corners, interior, odometer reading, and any existing damage. These photos are your record in case of a dispute with the storage facility.

Now find a storage facility on CarStorageFinder that matches your needs and budget.